Q: How long do I need to wait before I can clean and seal my pavers?
A: As a rule of thumb we suggest waiting 3-6 months. This allows any efflorescence to come out and weather away naturally. If you have a lot of rainfall in the spring, 3 months should suffice. If your installation was done in June and we have a dry summer, you should probably wait at least 6 months. The real test is a visual inspection of the pavers: if efflorescence is not that heavy or noticeable you can proceed to clean and seal.
Q: What does it cost to clean and seal my
project?
A: Depending on the amount of stains you have and the sealer you choose, the average cost would be less than $1.00 per square foot if you do it yourself.
Q: How do I choose a Sealer?
A: Your choice of sealer depends on the look you wish to achieve. All sealers will inhibit stain penetrations; some will provide a high sheen or gloss while others will only enhance the color and provide little to no sheen.
Q; What tools do t need?
A: For most residential jobs you will need a five gallon bucket, tape measure, magic marker, stiff handle nylon brush, roller and pan, garden hose and nozzle, protective eyewear, respirator and neoprene gloves.
Q: Why do EP Henry Pavers make the ideal pavement?
A: Our pavers are the ideal product for freeze/thaw environments. Proper installation of the product results in a pavement that is rigid, yet flexible. The joints between pavers allow the walkway, driveway, patio, etc. to move without cracking. In addition, they can be "unzipped" to allow for repairs or access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are virtually maintenance-free. By definition, concrete pavers have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi (about 3 times stronger than regular poured concrete) and a maximum water absorption rate of 5%.
Q: Why are they called interlocking concrete pavers?
A: It is the system that makes them interlocking concrete pavers, not necessarily the shape. When installed properly, the combination of the pavers, bedding sand, edge restraint and joint sand causes them to interlock, allowing them to work as a unified, flexible pavement.
Q: Does the color go all the way through the paver?
A: Most EP Henry Pavers (other than Coventry- and Bluenose) are manufactured with the DurafacingTM process which concentrates an extra dosage of cement and pigment on the wear layer. You'll never wear through this layer over the lifetime of the installation. Our nonDurafaced pavers have pigment throughout.
Q: How do I determine how much modified stone base material and sand I'll need?
A: As a rule of thumb, use a minimum of 3"-5" of base material for walkways, 6"-8" for patios, and 8"- 12" for driveways. The sand setting bed should be I" thick. One ton of modified stone or sand will cover 100 square feet at 2" thick. Using a 10' x 10' (100 square feet) patio as an example, you would need 1/2 ton of sand for the setting bed (I" thick) and 3 tons of modified stone for the base (6" thick). You'll need some additional sand (about 5%) or two bags of EP Henry PolySand for the joints between the pavers.
Q: Someone recommended that I use a fabric under my installation. When and where is it used?
A: EP Henry recommends a separation fabric (e.g., Mirafi's 500X) under all paver installations. The fabric is laid on top of the compacted soil in the excavated area and keeps the aggregate base material from working its way into the soil subgrade. This is especially important where the soil contains a lot of clay. At a cost of pennies per square foot, the separation fabric provides an insurance policy against base failure.
Q: Can EP Henry Pavers be used for my driveway?
A: Absolutely! For residential driveways, 8" to 12" of compacted base material is recommended. A standard 2-3/8" thick paver can be used for light vehicular (cars and pickup trucks) applications *A herringbone pattern is most suitable in these situations.
Q: Tell me about the sand setting bed...
A: The material for the bedding layer should be coarse concrete sand. Do not use stone dust or screenings; they do not allow the pavers to "seat" properly and do not allow for drainage. The sand should be an even I" thick layer. Do not compact the sand setting bed. Do not mix portland cement into the sand used for the setting bed or the joints between pavers. It defeats the flexibility of the system, and it cannot be cleaned off the surface of the pavers.
Q: How do pavers compare with patterned or stamped concrete?
A:
Patterned concrete pavements are merely slabs of concrete that are embossed A: with a pattern. Therefore, they are prone to the same problems with freeze/thaw cycles, namely cracking and spalling. We guarantee that EP Henry Pavers won't crack or spall; you cannot obtain a similar guarantee for stamped concrete. Stamped concrete requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which are very distracting in some patterns. Also, unlike EP Henry Pavers, patterned concrete pavements don't allow access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. At virtually the same price per square foot installed, EP Henry Pavers are clearly a superior choice.
Q: What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?
A: Sealers offer three advantages: they help resist stains, enhance the color, and bind the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however, are topical products and must be reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years). Only water-based sealers can be used in NJ and NYC.
Q: Will weeds grow between my pavers?
A: Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging in, the joint sand. This can be minimized by adding SandLOCK to your sand or by sealing the pavers or mixing a pre-emergent granular weed killer into the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer (such as Round-UpTM) can be used and will not damage the pavers.
Q: What can I do if my pavers are stained or damaged?
A: One of the advantages of pavers is that individual units can be removed and replaced in these situations. Remove the sand around the paver and then use two flat head screwdrivers to lift the paver out. Rocking the paver gently in a back-and-forth motion will facilitate removal.
Q: What can you tell me about snow removal and my pavers?
A: Pavers can be plowed and shoveled just like asphalt or concrete pavements. In fact, the chamfered edges and joints around the pavers promote melting of snow and ice. A plow with a rubber edge is recommended. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as they can damage the pavers. Both sodium chloride (rock salt) and calcium chloride will remove snow and ice but can harm the pavers (and any concrete surface for that matter). Environmelt is an effective and safe de-icer for your paving stone installation.
Q: I have an existing concrete walkway that's in pretty good shape. Can I lay pavers over it?
A: While not the preferred method, pavers can be laid on top of existing concrete walkways. Two issues must be addressed. First, the grade will be raised by about 3" (the thickness of the pavers plus the bedding sand). This is particularly critical if any doorways are involved. Second, if the existing concrete slab should raise or drop with freeze/thaw conditions, then the pavers will do the same.
Q: How can I remove moss or mold from my pavers?
A: Try Clorox diluted in water (10 parts water to one part Clorox). Be careful not to get it on other plant material. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will keep it from growing back if it's in a shady, damp area. For a more permanent solution, you will need to correct the moisture and shade problems that are encouraging the moss or mold.
Q: How about using EP Henry Pavers on my pool deck?
A: Not only do EP Henry Pavers make an attractive pool deck, but they also provide a slip-resistant walking surface. Pavers actually are better than poured concrete around pools from the standpoint that the joints will take on moisture and leave the pavement cooler under foot. Like all products that are used outdoors, lighter colors will tend to stay cooler as they reflect the sunlight. Furthermore, our Bullnose Pavers make a nice pool coping. Make sure the base material around the pool is well compacted before installing pavers. Safety covers can also be installed over pavers with the use of special anchors.
Q: Pavers with Efflorescence Cleaned Pavers What is the whitish deposit I see on some paver installations?
A: You are probably referring to efflorescence, a natural and common occurrence in concrete and brick products. Efflorescence is the result of salts in the materials used in production migrating to the surface of the pavers. This is not a defect or harmful to the pavers and will usually weather away with time. If you don't want to wait for it to weather away, Techni-Seal offers an excellent cleaning product to remove it (see page 39). Once the pavers are cleaned it is recommended that they be sealed.
Q: What type of footing is required for EP Henry Wall Systems?
A: A compacted stone base is required for all segmental retaining walls. This varies in thickness from a minimum of 4" for our Garden Walls to a minimum of 6" for our larger wall systems. Generally, the higher the wall, the thicker the base. You do not have to dig down below the frost line.
Q: How tall can I build my segmental retaining wall?
A: Height limitations without geogrid for all of our retaining wall products are listed within the catalog on the corresponding product pages. Designed and installed properly, segmental retaining walls can be built in excess of thirty feet high!
Q: What is geogrid?
A: Similar in concept to a "dead man" used in the construction of railroad tie walls, geogrid stabilizes the soil mass behind the retaining wall and ties the wall face to the earth being retained. Typically made of polyester or HDPE, geogrids - such as Mirafi 3XT - are opencelled, directional fabrics that are placed between the layers of block at different intervals. Geogrids are then laid out perpendicular to the wall face in the compacted soil behind the wall. The height of the wall being constructed, the soil properties, and any pressure on the wall (e.g., slopes, structures, paved areas) all affect the length and placement of the geogrid. Additional information is available from EP Henry or a professional engineer.
Q: What do I use to back fill my wall?
A: The first 6"-12" behind the wall should be backfilled with 1/2"- 3/4" clean stone to help relieve any hydrostatic pressure that might build up. The area directly behind the stone should be compacted soil. Use the same stone to fill the cores of TerraceWall r and StoneWall SELECT
Q: I need steps in my retaining wall. What can I do?
A: All EP Henry Retaining Wall products can be used to build steps. The wall units are used for the riser and the caps for the treads (Bullnose Pavers can also be used for treads). Make sure you pay attention to local codes that dictate the minimum step height, tread depth and hand rail requirements.
Q: Should I use a corrugated plastic pipe (drain tile) behind my wall to drain water away?
A: Due to their mortarless construction, segmental retaining walls will naturally "weep" to relieve any hydrostatic pressure that builds up behind the wall. As a rule of thumb, however, it's a good idea to use a drain tile directly behind the wall units at grade level for all wall applications.
Q: How do I make 90° corners with EP Henry Segmental Wall Systems?
A: Corner blocks with the rockface on two sides are available for the TerraceWall m, Mesa` Wall, Coventry' Wall and StoneWall' SELECTTM systems. They are used for either left- or right-hand corners and are set in place with concrete adhesive. Corner blocks can be made in the field for English GardenWallTM and Nursery Stone"" by knocking off one side with either a hammer and chisel or splitter.
Q: Can I make a curved wall with EP Henry Wall Systems?
A: One of the many advantages over a railroad tie wall is that walls, with either inside or outside curves, can be built with all EP Henry Wall Systems. Blocks with tapered sides are used for outside curves, and inside curves can be created by placing the front corners together and gapping the units in the back.
Q: What do I use to adhere the caps on my retaining wall?
A: Use a high strength, flexible concrete adhesive, such as Paver Bond, to affix your wall cap.
Q: What if I want to build a freestanding wall?
A: No problem! EP Henry developed Double Sided Coventry' Wall to increase your creative options for walls that are functional and look great. Available in two heights and five lengths - like our original Coventry Wall system - it's perfect for wing walls, knee walls, sitting areas and more.
Q: When should I involve an engineer in the design of my wall?
A: We recommend the use of a professional engineer on projects with taller walls (above 4') or with unusual site conditions (steep slopes, parking lot or structure behind the wall). Local building codes may also necessitate the use of a professional engineer for walls above a certain height.
We can provide design charts and tables with generalized engineering solutions for some of our retaining wall systems. Each situation is unique, however, and specific evaluation will provide the most accurate solution.
Q: What are tiered walls and how do I plan for them?
A: Tiered walls are two or more walls placed in a multilevel arrangement. The second wall should be located behind the first wall at a distance of at least twice the height of the first wall under ideal soil conditions (e.g. if the front wall is 3' high, the second wall should be at least 6' behind it).
